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Some myths about the Dolomites
Some myths about the Dolomites
by Ged Desforges
1) All the routes are on death rock, more chossy than the chossiest of Gogarth. Wrong, look in the right places and you’ll find some of the most immaculate limestone you could wish for, we’re talking Verdon quality only with friction!
2) All the good routes are busy and polished. Wrong, again look in the right places and you’ll have some of the best multi pitch climbing you could wish for, all to yourself.
3) The only worthwhile routes are the Comici etc on the Tre Cima di Laverado, and on the Sella Towers. Very, very wrong. Here’s a collection of some of the new wave of super classics that are springing up in the Dolomites, and will give you an exceptional trip of hard, big rock climbing.
Castelleto (Tofana Area)
A very new route, giving 10 pitches of sustained climbing on rock ranging from good and juggy to perfect and technical. The crux pitch is supposedly the roof on pitch 4 (7a), but this is short lived, and the long, engaging pitches of 6c/6c+ above will keep you very entertained. Park at the top of the Falzerago pass, and head towards the Val Travenanzes. 3 or 4 routes exist on this face, ranging from 6a to 7a, all are excellent, and give great warm up routes for a big trip. Topo available here
"HyperSalame", Il Salami di Sassolungo
This stunning buttress tucked away round the back of the huge bulk of the Sassolungo is one of those bits of rock just begging to be climbed, and has to be one of the most aesthetically pleasing bits of rock in the Dolomites. It was first climbed by the Man himself, Emilio Comici in 1946, to give the classic way up at about VI (HVS/E1). More recently, local Jedi Ivo Rabanser put up the superb Hypersalami, that has still only seen a handful of ascents. The route follows the right hand side of the front of the pillar, giving 13 pitches of sustained grade VI/VII (E2) climbing up cracks, slabs, roofs and walls. A few pegs mark the way, but you’ll need a full rack.
The beautiful trek round the back of the Sassolungo is followed by a scramble up the gully to the bottom of the tower, where chances are you’ll feel very alone! The route is in a stunning position on the tower, and finishes on a brilliant small summit, where you really appreciate the true scale of the Sassolungo, and wander how the hell you’re going to get down! Follow the guide carefully and you won’t get in trouble. You’ll also be rewarded with a brilliant 500 metre scree run down to the Vicenza hut for cold beers.
Torre Brunicko, Val Gardena
A number of bolted multi-pitch routes have been opened on this very accessible face, and this is surely the best of the bunch. A real modern classic, following immaculate water warn limestone for 14 pitches of sustained brilliance between French 6b and 7a. It takes you from the very best of Spanish-esque cranking around on steep jugs, and technical wall climbing reminiscent of the best of Pembroke. Truly brilliant right to the very end (topo in local book).
"Tempi Moderni", Marmolada
For some reason the mighty South Wall of the Marmolada is a neglected, quiet place. Having climbed there I have no idea why. The rock is the best in the dolomites, (perfect, pocketed Verdon-esque limestone) it’s one of the tallest walls around (800 metres high) and the biggest (3 km wide). The routes are fully committing alpine undertakings, finishing on the highest summit around.
Tempi Moderni (Modern Times), established by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane in 1982, signifies the new breed of hard routes in the Alps. It takes an uncompromising line up the huge bulk of the wall, taking a
direct finish up the blank headwall of the Punta Rocca summit. Unlike most of the hard routes in the Dolomites,
you can’t pull on gear past the hard bits, as on the
whole there isn’t very much gear! The climbing is bold, and the ethic is strong here. In situ pegs exist where they will go, but there is nothing artificial. Suitors must be up to the challenge, and be prepared for a big, memorable day out!
The climbing follows steep cracks, slabs, walls, drainpipes, offwidths, all leading to a full on, hard finale high on the headwall. The route is mainly sustained French 6a-6c, with a couple of 7a pitches at the
start, and right at the top! These definitely feel distinctly like proper E4/E5, and all offer some of the most amazing pitches of rock climbing imaginable. The hanging valley below the huge South Wall is beautiful, and there are plenty of good bivi spots. Start early, as normal ascent time is about 12 hours, and there’s a big descent to follow (although you won’t have to worry about the crowds!). Topping out on the summit of the Marmolada in the evening sun is magical, with the whole range spreading out in front of you. Just keep alert for the descent, which is a tricky but fun slide down the glacier, and a big slog do
wn to the road, where you’ll need to walk back round to your car, or hope for a lift. Get to the nearest bar, quickly!
Having climbed a bunch of the classic Alps rock routes (the Cassin on Piz Badile, the Comici on the Cima Grande etc), I can safely say this was the best by far, and is a truly memorable place to climb. The classic grade VI of the wall is “Don Quixote”, and apparently gives an equally stunning day out on yet more perfect rock!
This route, and many more, can be found in the superb book “Vie e Vicende in Dolomiti”, by Ivo Rabanser, which gives a brilliant guide to mainly unknown routes in the Dolomites. A topo is also available on PlanetMountain.com, which also has topos for many more accessible, partly bolted, and always superb multi pitch climbs in the dolomites.