Welcome to Malhamba - Into the unknown.

By Si Litchfield

Frankenjura is home to one of the finest sport climbing areas of Europe, if not the world. With over 7000 routes and countless boulder problems on over 1000 crags there is almost always something to suit everyone’s tastes regardless of the weather. The ‘Redpoint’ was invented here and the Gullich’s test piece Action Directe was the first climb of its grade in the world and continues to test top climbers today. Most of the crags are between 12 and 25 meters high mainly well bolted on mainly solid limestone. There is not much here for the trad climber, but a few trad routes still exist, along with a few unsportingly bolted sport routes. Frankenjuras geological make up means that many different types of handholds can be found on differing crags, with some crags mainly having slopers, some having monos, some with jugs and some with pockets.

The Fränkische Schweiz has the greatest density of breweries (both in terms of per person and per mile) in the world. Each village seems to have its own brewery and the local brews are renouned in Germany for being something special... whatever you do don’t order a Becks!

How to get there:

Fly to Nuremburg. Crags are most easily reached by car either up the A9 northwards or the A73 Northwards, and then the B470. It is also possible to catch a train to Ebermannstadt (change at Forchheim) to access crags in the Wiesental Valley. Buses run buses from Ebermannstadt, plus a summer railway from Ebermannstadt to Gössweinstein. Train and bus info can be found at http://www.bahn.de

Where to stay

Camping: “Eichler” in Untertrubach
“Kormershof” in Allerdorf
“Bieger” in Rothenbühl / Ebermannstadt
Campingplatz Betzenstein
“Frankenalb” in Etwelwang
“Fränkischer Schweiz” Tüchersfeld
“Bärenschlucht” between Tuchersfeld and Pottenstein
“Jurahöhe” in Kleinsau
“Steinerer Beutel” in Waischfeld
“Waldmühle” in Freienfels
“Schloßcampingplatz” in Kleinziegenfeld

It is also possible to bivi in the caves under overhangs, although the legality of this is dubious! Such places (apparently!) include: On the opposite side of the valley to the Marientaler Wand (nr Pottenstein) climbing in this cave is banned (though there is a route graded 10 here…killer move on monos) but there is scope for more than just an evenings bouldering. Under a large overhang on the South side (not the village side) of the Leupoldsteiner Wand is another fine bivi cave. The land is owned by the local pub and the owner resents having to clean up after climbers so use the pubs facilities! There is a pavilion above the Traindorferwand which could also serve as a bivi. This pavilion is sometimes used for festivals and there is a campsite near to it, so be careful.

Bans and ethics

- Watch out and observe bird bans. Described in guides as ‘Gesperrt von + dates).
Many routes start in bivi spots so keep them clean
- After extensive consultation with the national park and various authorities the crags have been divided into three zone types:
- Zone 1 - Climbing banned
- Zone 2 - Climbing allowed on exising routes. No new routes
- Zone 3 – Climbing allowed on existing routes and new routes allowed.

Where to climb

There are too many crags to name (or even visit in a life time) so a good place to search is the online route database: http://www.climb.frankenjura.com/deutsch/database_fels.php3 .

A few tips:

Rodenstein (Walberla) – A well know (and therefore beginning to get polished) crag. Easily accessed from Forchheim and the A3. In Schlaifhausen follow signs to Walberla and park opposite the Mountain Rescue hut. South West facing and quick drying and a 5 minute walk in. Perfect for winter and cool days. Too hot for summers days.

Weißenstein – A popular roadside crag, with something for everyone. Slabs for beginners, vertical walls and a brutal overhang (with both juggy routes and monotastic testpieces). Quick drying and open. Also climbable on hot summers days as some walls offer a bit of shade. Easy access off the A9, exit Plech

Röthelfels – a very extensive and popular crag for the mid range climber, with many sunny faces.

Roter fels – Extensive crag, with a good range of routes. South facing and good for winter sun. Close to the road between Velden and Etzendorf

Waldkopf – Only heros with big guns need apply – Home of Action Directe

Klagemauer – top bouldering spot, plus short brutal routes. (In the area around Sorg, Dörfles und Affalterthal)

Freudenmauer – South facing crag with routes and excellent bouldering. Good in winter.

There are many other crags worth all worth exploring!

Gear shops

Nuremberg:
- Fietzophren - Bucherstrasse 48a (Ecke Friedrich-Ebert Platz) 90408 Nürnberg.
- Eastern Spring - Laufertorgraben 4

Erlangen:
- Rotpunktsport - Goethestrasse 44, Erlangen. Next to the Railway Station
- Avalanche - Untere Karlstraße 9-11, Erlangen. Just off Hugonottenplatz 5 mins from railway station.

Forchheim:
- Mountainsport Kunz, Bamberger Straße. 62 , 91301 Forchheim.

Guidebooks

Can be bought in many British gear shops, online, or in the bookshops Freytag & Berndt, Nuremberg or Thalia Erlangen.

Sebastian Schwertner, Frankenjura 1 (North) and Frankenjura 2 (South), (Panico, 2006).
- Definitive Guide with English introduction, but the rest is in German. Not too hard for the average British climber to understand.

Ulrich & Harold Röker, Franken 1 (North) and Franken 2, (Gebro, 2005, 2006).
- In German and English.

Sebastian Schwertner, Frankenjura Extreme, (Panico, 2006).
- Guidebook for Northern Frankenjura, only for grade 8 (UIAA) and beyond. In English.

Online Info:
http://www.climb.frankenjura.com/deutsch/index.php3
- Topos and weather information in English

Indoor Walls

Erlangen:
- DAV Bouldering Wall, Hanne-Jung-Kletterhalle, Helene-Richter-Str. 1, 91052 Erlangen. (Just off Röthelheimallee)
- http://www.alpenverein-erlangen.de/template_loader.php?tplpage_id=34
- A bouldering wall (plus 3 roped routes) €6 per day.

Forchheim:
- Magnesia. Im Weisentcenter, Bayreuterstrasse 108, 91301 Forchheim.
- http://www.magnesia-klettern.de/
- Sport Climbing (170 routes), Bouldering Wall and Via-Ferrata. More extensive than Erlangen.

Nuremberg:
- Climbing Factory, Triumph Adler Gelände,´Fürther Strasse 212, 90492 Nürnberg.
- http://www.climbing-factory.de/
- Over 100 routes, up to 17m high.

Germany isnt everyones first choice climbing destination, but Frankenjura has crags for all climbers, easy access and great beer. Well worth a visit