Welcome to Malhamba - Into the unknown.

by Toby Dunn

Where?

St Leger de Ventoux is an utterly classic sport climbing area in the south of France, about an hour’s drive north of Avignon. The closest towns of any size are Vaison la Romaine, and Buis les Barronies, both about a 15-minute drive. Fly to Nimes, (2hrs to the crag). Many other south of France airports are within a few hours drive as well, especially Marseille or Lyon.

OK… What’s the climbing like?

The routes at St Leger are massively varied, from four bolt power challenges to 40m+ stamina epics; crimps, slopers, tufa, pockets, and some really impressive ‘lines’ that stand out more than many do on steep limestone.

St Leger is best for 7b and above really, although below that you could still have a decent week, although the quality of some of the 6s can be a little hit and miss, partially because many of them are new and haven’t cleaned up that well yet. Generally, the steeper the rock is here, the better and more interesting it is; the south face has line after stunning line in the 8s. Saying this, St Leger has the best 6b+ you’ll ever do in your life, a huge (40m) towering corner, which stretches the full height of the crag.

The crags lie in a beautiful river valley, nestled alongside Mt Ventoux. They face just about every conceivable direction, so it is climbable for most of the year, but as is so often the case, spring and autumn are probably the best seasons. Winter is quiet, and can be awesome on the south facing sectors with perfect bright sunshine and freezing cold air. The north-facing sector is the prime venue for when the temperatures are a bit higher, and is a little reminiscent of a Kilnsey with lots of bits of tufa stuck to it, and without men with flat caps and whippets; or an irritating road.

Nice. Anything else round here for when I tick the crag?

Plenty; Seynes and Russan are both about an hour away from St Leger, and brilliant winter venues.

The Dentelles de Montmirail are half an hour away, and have technical, steely crimping with beautiful views.

Baume Rousse is just outside Buis, and excellent as well. There is a wealth of crags in the area that have exceptional easier climbing as well. Combe Obscure and the dozens of crags around Buis particularly spring to mind.

Mountain biking in the area is world class; as is the wine drinking potential, and the bakeries.

Where do I stay?

Gites are probably the best option, cheap with a few of you, very comfortable etc etc – check out the gites-de-france website for details.

DO NOT DOSS IN THE CAR PARK for the crag, or you may be responsible for getting climbing here banned.

There are several campsites in the nearby towns, especially Vaison. Topos?

Available HERE

This is a bit out of date, and the grades can be a little hit and miss, but it does the job ok. Most of the routes have a plaque at the base with name, grade, and often length of pitch.

There is a published Jingo Wobbly guidebook, but it is totally useless (really, I mean totally useless). Don’t buy it!

A Rockfax guide for the area is in the pipeline.

Other beta?

You will need a car, there is no public transport to St Leger, and hitching would be very slow.

If the mistral (freezing wind) is blowing, Seynes or the Dentelles are a much better bet than St Leger.

There are climbing walls in Avignon – a good bouldering room at the SoeScalade shop, and a bigger routes wall in the city.

You can buy chalk, and some basics, at the Intersport in Vaison.