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By Si Lichfield

Middle Germany (Mitteldeutschland) Halle – Leipzig.

If you ever end up in the industrial landscape around Halle / Leipzig you can be forgiven for wondering how there could be any climbing in such a flat region. But fear not for the active local climbing community have taken every opportunity to develop the area. While this is not a prime holiday destination, if passing through (en route to Frankenjura on the A9 from Berlin to Bayreuth, or to the Sächsichen Schweiz on the A14 towards Dresden for example!) then it may be worth a stop.

Access:    Halle and Leipzig are served by the A9 from Berlin, A14 from Dresden and Magdeburg, A38 from Göttingen.

Halle and surroundings:

Aktienbruch – Löbejün.

15 km from Halle, just off the A14 is the jewel in the crown of the local climbing scene. A quarry with walls facing every aspect offers climbing thoughout the year. There is something for everyone here, with easy routes, slabs, arêtes, and technical walls on well bolted Porphyry. 120+ routes up to 40m.

For beginners: Gondwana V.

Top routes:    The Edge (Sächsich VIIIb) – a stunning arête. (Can be climbed on the left, Kraftwerk Mensch IXa).

        Leistensauberer VIIIc - A great slab.

For heros:    Terra Nova Xc (f9+).

Other stuff:    A short walk away is the Kauzenberg quarry, great for a quick swim or a spot of deep water soloing.

Not to be missed: Sommersonnenwendefest: Midsummer’s day festival – with a band, climbing comps, slacklining and much more.

Petersberg:    Krostiker and Goethe quarries. 50 routes up to 30m, just off the A14   

City climbing Halle

  • Mitropawand and Fetter Kletter climbing wall at the Thüringer Bahnhof
  • Galgenberg (Boudering and some sport routes)
  • Kröllwitzbrucke – Buildering…

Leipzig

400 bolted routes in numerous quarries around Hohbug  (Between Wurzen and Eilenburg)

100 routes in Brandis quarries (A14 east of Leipzig).

K4 climbing tower, Ratzelstraße, Leipzig Grünau.

More information: here , and here

Guidebook: Gerald Krug, Kletterführer Mitteldeutschland, (Halle: Geoquest, 2003) ISBN 3-00-011810-1.