Welcome to Malhamba - Into the unknown.

Oberes Donautal (Upper Danube Valley)

By Si Litchfield

Limestone climbing in an idyllic setting overlooking the sweeping curves of the river Danube. All of the crags are South or West Facing so get plenty of sun. This area offers the highest crags in Germany outside of the Alps (up to 150m) and the classic of the area is the 5 pitch Kaiserweg on the Schaufels.

Getting there:

Buses run from Tuttlingen and Siegmaren (alight between Neumühle and Neidingen for Schaufels and Blickfels).

Rock:

The quality of rock can range from poor to perfect (the Schaufels, for example improves with height). A helmet is recommended for the higher crags such as the Schaufels or Schreyfels.

Protection:

Mainly bolted. Sometimes sportingly bolted so for longer routes a few nuts could be of use to the nervous leader. The rock doesn’t lend itself to friend placement. The occasional route has been left unbolted.

Grades:

UIAA grades

Accommodation:

There are hotels in the valley for tourist. The DAV has a hut under the Stuhlfels: Ebinger Haus der DAV Sektion Albstadt-Ebingen (Tel. 07431 - 3480) and there is a Naturfreundehaus near Stetten (Tel. 07573 - 2591) . You can camp on the Campingplatz Wagenburg in Hausen (Tel. 07579 - 559). Wild camping is very much banned!

Routes and crags

Owing to the rare flora and fauna there are many restrictions and bans. The following list is an outline. No new routing and please check the base of the crags for temporary bans.

Crags open all year round:

• Parkplatzfels
• Verlobungsfelsen - Garmischer Turm
• Löchlesfelsen
• Fuchsfels
• Westliche Zinne
• Dritte Zinne
• Zweite Zinne
• Erste Zinne
• Fischer fels
• Eigerturm
• Alte Hausener Wand
• Dachstein
• Stuhlfels
• Bad Men Rock
• Aussichtsfels
• Dreiecksfels
• Traumfels

Routes allowed all year round on restricted crags:

• On the Schreyfels (right hand side)
• Bröselmüller
• Bröselmaier
• Auf Messers Schneide
• Kreinerführe
• Pfingstochse
• Preußriß
• Dezemberstreich
• Efeuverschneidung
• Direkter Ausstieg
• Brot und Speck
• Quadrophenia
• Igelkante
• Holunderkamin
• Opakante

On the Schaufels:

• Kaiserweg
• Schöner Riß (Start as for Kaiserweg)
• Gerader Riß
• Normalweg (Exit Leere Welt or direkter Ausstieg)
• Direkter Ausstieg
• Leere Welt
• Bled gloffa
• Trizeps
• Direkter Einstieg Trizeps
• Godfather of Rock
• Chrome Dome
• Sese
• Cats
• Schurer Gedenkweg
• Herbstweg

On the Blicklesfels:

• Blicklekante
• Dreierweg
• Abendtraum
• Kurzschluß
• The Mad FVOS
• Albtraum
• Hurenfurche
• Gailtalerin
• Via Lochus
• Walzkante

On the Falkenwand:

Routes from the Bierkante to the Rottweiler Weg

Restricted Crags

Rabenwand: open from 16.7. to 30.9, and from 1.11.to 28.2.
Donaucalanque open from 16.7. to 30.9 and 1.11.bis 28.2.

Restricted routes and sectors:

On the Schreyfels routes:

• Tira Mi Su
• Siebenkäs
• Weg der Jugend
• Verdauungspaziergang
• Dülfterverschneidung

Open from 1.8. to 31.12