Welcome to Malhamba - Into the unknown.

The South Barra Isles; Pabbay and Mingulay

The southern end of the Outer Hebrides is home to a collection of small, wild islands, battered over the years by the big bad Atlantic Ocean to give a stunning landscape, guarded by some of the biggest sea cliffs in the UK. Some of these are covered in grass, birds, and bird shit. Some of them are steep enough to make them unattractive to the birds, have been stripped of all the loose stuff by the big storms, and have left some of the most incredible trad climbing to be found in the UK, or anywhere for that matter. With the evocative backdrop of these ancient islands, all sorts of exciting wildlife all around you, and the sheer pleasure of living away from the traps of modern life, a climbing trip here is guaranteed to be an unforgettable experience.

The southern most habitation of the Hebrides is Castlebay on Barra, a 5 hour ferry journey from Oban. South of here lies 5 islands, of which Pabbay and Mingulay are of the most interest to the climber. A night in Castlebay is well spent in one of the pubs, but the camping spot is right next to an open sewer and not recommended! There are plenty of bunkhouses that are worth checking out. However on your outward journey you’ll probably just get straight to the Islands, courtesy of Donald Mcleod and his boat the Boy James. A 45 minute journey will dump you on either Pabbay or Mingulay, hopefully with a boxful of food and a promise of a pick up in a few days!

 

Climbing in Mingulay

 

 

If you’re into big sea cliff adventures, then prepare to wet yourself. The main event is the 100 metre high sheer sweep of Dun Mingulay, home to a rake of classic E2’s and E3’s around 3 pitches long, on perfect gneiss reminiscent of a cross between perfect gabbro, and the finest granite. On the right is a handful of soon-to-be-classics E5’s, with maximum atmosphere guaranteed; Big Kenneth (E4/5) is particularly recommended. If you fancy a gentler warm up day to get going, then the Boulevard is a good place to start. A friendly ledge at the base gives access to a lot of superb 2 pitch routes between E1 and E5. If you want a single pitch venue with a bit more spice, the recently developed Red Wall is the place to head for. Poised above an enormous caldron of sea, the wall overhangs slightly, and generally yields sustained climbing on positive holds. The already emerging classics of Big Chief Turning Bull (E4), and Little Miss Sitting Pretty (E5) are superb outings, just beware of the odd snappy hold still hanging around! Further left is the impressive looking K and S Special (E6), established in 2006 and reported as “absolutely 5 star”. Countless other cliffs are dotted around the island with brilliant routes being the norm rather than a rarity.

 

Climbing in Pabbay

Plenty of single pitch “Pembroke-esque” venues are to be found around here. Hoofers Geo and the Poop Deck being the most popular, home to the classics of Sugar Cane Country (E4), and stacks more, all offering stunning climbing on the most perfect rock imaginable. The Banded Wall is slightly bigger, giving 2 pitch routes of more amazing quality, with Endolphin Rush (E3) a classic of the island. Perhaps the show piece wall of Pabbay is the mighty Pink Wall. Imagine the front face of Higgar Tor. Only 4 times bigger. On acid. This wall is reeeeaaaaalllllly steep, but fortunately covered in big holds giving quite simply incredible climbing. All the routes are brilliant, and if you’re fit, very amenable. If you’re not, be prepared for a fight! In Profundum Lacu (E5), Raiders of the Lost Auk (E4), The Bonxie (E6), Ancient Mariner (E5), and What More Puffin (E6) are all of the highest quality. The ledge at the bottom is fairly friendly, just talk nicely to the Fulmars. One final classic well worth seeking out is the Hebrudean (E4/5) in the Bay Area. Brilliant, steep cranking.

Travel

Caledonian McBrine Ferry from Oban to Castlebay on Barra, then fishing boat to Pabbay or Mingulay with Donald Mcleod. You’ll need to contact Donald well in advance to book him, but the Oban-Castlebay ferry is just turn up and pay.

Accomodation

Pabbay and Mingulay are completely uninhabited. There’s not really even any paths! So you need to bring everything you need to camp comfortably for a week; a sturdy tent (a proper Atlantic storm will get rid of cheap tents pretty easily!), warm clothes (it can get fairly chilly at night), cool clothes (it can get roasting hot in the day!), and plenty of food. There is a stream on both islands, but it’s worth bringing chlorine tablets; getting sick here would be most undesirable.  The Islands are also pretty boggy, and you'll definitely get wet feet.  A pair of walking boots or just some waterproof socks is a good idea, and a second pair of trainers for hanging around base camp.

Climbing gear

Some of the cliffs are really, really big! A 100 metre abseil rope (static) is absolutely essential, along with plenty of extra gear for rigging it up; a few hexes, spare nuts and friends, plenty of screwgates and long slings. Also ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL is some rope protectors. The rock is sharp and a rope will get shredded in no time without them. 2 way radios and a set of jumars for the first man are also very useful, as it can be pretty tricky to locate the right spot. For the climbing, take a usual set of nuts and friends, perhaps doubling up on medium size friends.

Beasties

You might well get away without being midged at all. But then again you might not. Bring repellent and a net. Generally however, the islands are fairly breezy and they are nowhere near as much of a problem as the mainland. Ticks are plentiful though, so shorts and sandals aren’t ideal for hanging round basecamp. A pair of tweezers can be useful! A slightly bigger hazard is the Bonxies (large, brown, ground nesting Gulls), which have a habit of dive bombing you if you get too near the nests. Beware!

Hygiene

As the Islands get more popular it’s essential that everyone behaves responsibly with regards to human waste. At the bare minimum, take a spade and dig a deep toilet pit, ensuring it’s a long way away from, and downstream from, the drinking streams. Ideally, take a small chemical toilet with you and take your waste back out with you. There are facilities in Castlebay for camper vans to empty theirs, which you can use. Generally, look after yourself well (chlorine tablets for water, wash your hands etc), as picking up a dose of the runs here would be extremely unpleasant!