Welcome to Malhamba - Into the unknown.

The Sächsische Schweiz (Saxony Switzerland) is a trad climbers paradise and is the home of the knotted sling (Knotenschlinge). Set either side of the stunning Elbe River between Dresden and the Czech Republic, 100’s of pinnacles stick out above the pines and it could be a lifetime’s work to reach every summit. It is an area with a rich tradition which should be respected.

Local ethics

Local ethics are strict, they always have been and they always will be as they serve to protect this unique climbing region. Along with the normal no chipping rules etc, there are some specific ones:

• No metal protection (ie wires, friends hexs etc.)

• No chalk.

• No climbing when its damp.

• No fires.

• Climbing is only allowed on pinnacles

Why? The sandstone is very soft and metal pro will destroy it. Furthermore, metal pro is MORE likely to rip than knotted slings, as knotted slings deform to the shape of the rock and are dynamic, metal on the other hand has no give and will rip through the rock and is LESS likely to hold if fallen upon. No climbing when it’s damp, as it will cause extra damage to the surface of the rock. With over 1,100 of pinnacles there is no need to be tempted to climb on the protected walls. Lighting fires in a dry pine forest is a certain way to annoy the National Park authorities and jeopardise relations. Rangers do patrol the areas looking for fires and have been know to hand out hefty fines.

Combined tactics are, however, allowed.

Protection

Mainly knotted slings although every so often there are rings which one can clip but these tend to be after the crux. There too are strict rules about the placing of rings which means they tend to be placed once a first ascensionists can find a hands free rest. Belays tend to have a ring, or an obvious thread.

There is much reckoning about the holding power of slings with a debate about static vs dynamic cord, cord size, cord vs tape. I took a 25 meter whipper when a hold broke and it held.

The best way to learn about them is to ask local climbers or post on an internet climbing forum.

A German book with a section dedicated to knotted slings is: Gerald Krug, Kinderkopf und Affenfaust, (Halle: Geoquest Verlag, 2004). ISBN 3-00-014952-X

Summits

Have a ‘Gipfelbuch’ in which each ascent is recorded with the date, name of the climbers and the route. Summits generally also have an obvious abseil ring (shown on most topos) this is usually situated in a place that minimises erosion. Its traditional to greet other climbers with the greeting ‘Bergheil’.

Tactics

- Start easy! Using knotted slings is like learning to place protection again. Enjoy the situation at first…before getting gripped on a protectionless, steep, sandy horrorshow.
- Ask local climbers for advice on how to tie slings.
- Invest in a wide range of bits of cord (this could include very thick ships rope for those fist size cracks).
- I carried a mixture of tied and untied slings. You never know what size knot you will require (figure of eight is bigger than an overhand but there are many more knots that act as pro) or what size cord you will need. Furthermore, there are often threads that one can find.
- Practice tying knots one handed, so you can do it en-route.
- ‘Hairy’ cord / tape is more grippy and is less likely to be lifted off sand ears.
- Take time to place as much protection as possible – I placed some dubious threads, but they would have slowed me down.

Getting there

Dresden is the largest city close by. There are flights to Leipzig (And Ryanair to Leipzig Altenburg), Berlin and trains will leave to Dresden. Trains go to Bad Schandau or Schmilka-Hirschmühle

The areas of Bielatal and Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet (Guide band 1) are best reached by car or by bus to Bielatal or Rosenthal

Wehlener Gebiet and Rathener Gebiet can be reached from the stations of Stadt Wehlen and Rathen and Brandgebiet can be reached from Bad Schandau and Rathen (Guide Band 2)

For Schmilka (Guide Band 3), Kleiner Zschand and Großer Zschand (Guide Band 4) alight at Schmilka and cross the Elbe on a passenger ferry and from Schmilka a walk uphill along the Wurzelweg leads through the Schmilka region. Descending into the next valley leads then to Kleiner Zschand. Affenstein (Eastern area, Band 4) can be reached following the Wurzelweg to the crest of the hill and following the crest North West.

Großer Zschand can also be reached from Schmilka via a steep path to the Roßsteig and Zeughaus via Gr. Winterberg. (Or via the Wurzelweg, following the crest eastwards to the Roßsteig and Zeughaus). The Hinterhermsdorf area is best reached from by car and then on foot from Hinterhermsdorf. Waldenstein can either be reached by car from Neumannmühle or on foot by dropping down northwards through Kleiner Zschand. (Guide Band 5)

Climbing

There are many natural lines and many routes follow cracks. Learn to jam beforehand! There are, however, stunning face climbs. Many of the climbs are multi pitch.

The ‘remote’ Kleiner Zscand is the Heringstein with over 70 routes of differing grades and the Bloßstock with a 90m face.
Crags along the Elbe offer stunning views along the river.

Accommodation

Traditionally climbers sleep in caves. We found a large overhang under the base of the Heringsstein (Area Kleiner Zschand). This pinnacle was away from the beaten track and we had no problems leaving our stuff. Some caves are ‘adventurous’ to get to!

Rest Days

- Walking into the Czech Republic is easy and supplies can be bough in Hrensko. Hrensko not a particularly pleasant border town whose only existence is only justified by the fact that its cheaper than Germany (good for stocking up on supplies).
- A day with Czech beers…
- Walking in the pine forests or along the Elbe is well recommended.
- Königstein and Felsenburg Neurathen are two touristy things to do
- If the weather is set to be really bad, Prague is only a train ride away.

Summit jumping

Jumping between summits and landing (or not) on extremely small ledges is an accepted sport here with its own grading system, ranging from Adam and Eve for mere novices to near suicide. Good luck…

Guide books

The complete guide book is in 6 parts (Bands): Dietmar Heinicke & Co., Kletterführer Sächsische Schweiz.
- Band 1: Schmilka, Schrammsteine
- Band 2: Bielatal, Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet
- Band 3: Gebiet der Steine
- Band 4: Großer Zschand, Wildensteiner Gebiet, Hinterhermsdorf
- Band 5: Affensteine, Kleiner Zschand
- Band 6: Rathen, Wehlen, Brandgebiet
Published by Berg- & Naturverlag Peter Rölke. These guides are in German and have good detailed maps. The topos take a while to get used to as they are a combination between some photos, descriptions and depictions of the pinnacles from above.

There is a compact guide in two volumes: Robert Hahn, Kompakt Kletterführer, Sächsische Schweiz, (Band 1: Schmilka, Schrammsteine, Affensteine, Kleiner & Großer Zschand, Wildensteiner. Band 2: Wehlener Gebiet, Rathener Gebiet, Brandgebiet, Bielatal, Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet).

Finally there are topo guides by Jürgen Schmeißer for: Band 1: Rathen / Wehlen, Band 2: Gebiet der Steine / Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet, Band 3: Bielatal (See http://www.teufelsturm.de/kletterfuehrer/)

All the guides are in German.

Websites:
http://www.gipfelbuch.de/
http://www.teufelsturm.de/

And finally

Knotted slings and the traditional type of climbing offered in this area have a fearsome reputation, but there should be plenty for a cometent trad climber to go at. Each of the climbing days that I have spent in this region have been some of the most enjoyable and intense that I have ever experienced. It’s a very special place!